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Hello everyone,

Whether your are a long standing forum member or whether you have just registered today, it's a good idea to read and review the rules below so that you have a very good idea of what to expect when you come to Pacers Digest.

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Why do we do this? So that it's more difficult for spammers (be they human or robot) to post, and so users who are banned cannot immediately re-register and start dousing people with verbal flames.

Below are the rules of Pacers Digest. After you have read them, you will have a very good sense of where we are coming from, what we expect, what we don't want to see, and how we react to things.

Rule #1

Pacers Digest is intended to be a place to discuss basketball without having to deal with the kinds of behaviors or attitudes that distract people from sticking with the discussion of the topics at hand. These unwanted distractions can come in many forms, and admittedly it can sometimes be tricky to pin down each and every kind that can rear its ugly head, but we feel that the following examples and explanations cover at least a good portion of that ground and should at least give people a pretty good idea of the kinds of things we actively discourage:

"Anyone who __________ is a liar / a fool / an idiot / a blind homer / has their head buried in the sand / a blind hater / doesn't know basketball / doesn't watch the games"

"People with intelligence will agree with me when I say that __________"

"Only stupid people think / believe / do ___________"

"I can't wait to hear something from PosterX when he/she sees that **insert a given incident or current event that will have probably upset or disappointed PosterX here**"

"He/she is just delusional"

"This thread is stupid / worthless / embarrassing"

"I'm going to take a moment to point and / laugh at PosterX / GroupOfPeopleY who thought / believed *insert though/belief here*"

"Remember when PosterX said OldCommentY that no longer looks good? "

In general, if a comment goes from purely on topic to something 'ad hominem' (personal jabs, personal shots, attacks, flames, however you want to call it, towards a person, or a group of people, or a given city/state/country of people), those are most likely going to be found intolerable.

We also dissuade passive aggressive behavior. This can be various things, but common examples include statements that are basically meant to imply someone is either stupid or otherwise incapable of holding a rational conversation. This can include (but is not limited to) laughing at someone's conclusions rather than offering an honest rebuttal, asking people what game they were watching, or another common problem is Poster X will say "that player isn't that bad" and then Poster Y will say something akin to "LOL you think that player is good". We're not going to tolerate those kinds of comments out of respect for the community at large and for the sake of trying to just have an honest conversation.

Now, does the above cover absolutely every single kind of distraction that is unwanted? Probably not, but you should by now have a good idea of the general types of things we will be discouraging. The above examples are meant to give you a good feel for / idea of what we're looking for. If something new or different than the above happens to come along and results in the same problem (that being, any other attitude or behavior that ultimately distracts from actually just discussing the topic at hand, or that is otherwise disrespectful to other posters), we can and we will take action to curb this as well, so please don't take this to mean that if you managed to technically avoid saying something exactly like one of the above examples that you are then somehow off the hook.

That all having been said, our goal is to do so in a generally kind and respectful way, and that doesn't mean the moment we see something we don't like that somebody is going to be suspended or banned, either. It just means that at the very least we will probably say something about it, quite possibly snipping out the distracting parts of the post in question while leaving alone the parts that are actually just discussing the topics, and in the event of a repeating or excessive problem, then we will start issuing infractions to try to further discourage further repeat problems, and if it just never seems to improve, then finally suspensions or bans will come into play. We would prefer it never went that far, and most of the time for most of our posters, it won't ever have to.

A slip up every once and a while is pretty normal, but, again, when it becomes repetitive or excessive, something will be done. Something occasional is probably going to be let go (within reason), but when it starts to become habitual or otherwise a pattern, odds are very good that we will step in.

There's always a small minority that like to push people's buttons and/or test their own boundaries with regards to the administrators, and in the case of someone acting like that, please be aware that this is not a court of law, but a private website run by people who are simply trying to do the right thing as they see it. If we feel that you are a special case that needs to be dealt with in an exceptional way because your behavior isn't explicitly mirroring one of our above examples of what we generally discourage, we can and we will take atypical action to prevent this from continuing if you are not cooperative with us.

Also please be aware that you will not be given a pass simply by claiming that you were 'only joking,' because quite honestly, when someone really is just joking, for one thing most people tend to pick up on the joke, including the person or group that is the target of the joke, and for another thing, in the event where an honest joke gets taken seriously and it upsets or angers someone, the person who is truly 'only joking' will quite commonly go out of his / her way to apologize and will try to mend fences. People who are dishonest about their statements being 'jokes' do not do so, and in turn that becomes a clear sign of what is really going on. It's nothing new.

In any case, quite frankly, the overall quality and health of the entire forum's community is more important than any one troublesome user will ever be, regardless of exactly how a problem is exhibiting itself, and if it comes down to us having to make a choice between you versus the greater health and happiness of the entire community, the community of this forum will win every time.

Lastly, there are also some posters, who are generally great contributors and do not otherwise cause any problems, who sometimes feel it's their place to provoke or to otherwise 'mess with' that small minority of people described in the last paragraph, and while we possibly might understand why you might feel you WANT to do something like that, the truth is we can't actually tolerate that kind of behavior from you any more than we can tolerate the behavior from them. So if we feel that you are trying to provoke those other posters into doing or saying something that will get themselves into trouble, then we will start to view you as a problem as well, because of the same reason as before: The overall health of the forum comes first, and trying to stir the pot with someone like that doesn't help, it just makes it worse. Some will simply disagree with this philosophy, but if so, then so be it because ultimately we have to do what we think is best so long as it's up to us.

If you see a problem that we haven't addressed, the best and most appropriate course for a forum member to take here is to look over to the left of the post in question. See underneath that poster's name, avatar, and other info, down where there's a little triangle with an exclamation point (!) in it? Click that. That allows you to report the post to the admins so we can definitely notice it and give it a look to see what we feel we should do about it. Beyond that, obviously it's human nature sometimes to want to speak up to the poster in question who has bothered you, but we would ask that you try to refrain from doing so because quite often what happens is two or more posters all start going back and forth about the original offending post, and suddenly the entire thread is off topic or otherwise derailed. So while the urge to police it yourself is understandable, it's best to just report it to us and let us handle it. Thank you!

All of the above is going to be subject to a case by case basis, but generally and broadly speaking, this should give everyone a pretty good idea of how things will typically / most often be handled.

Rule #2

If the actions of an administrator inspire you to make a comment, criticism, or express a concern about it, there is a wrong place and a couple of right places to do so.

The wrong place is to do so in the original thread in which the administrator took action. For example, if a post gets an infraction, or a post gets deleted, or a comment within a larger post gets clipped out, in a thread discussing Paul George, the wrong thing to do is to distract from the discussion of Paul George by adding your off topic thoughts on what the administrator did.

The right places to do so are:

A) Start a thread about the specific incident you want to talk about on the Feedback board. This way you are able to express yourself in an area that doesn't throw another thread off topic, and this way others can add their two cents as well if they wish, and additionally if there's something that needs to be said by the administrators, that is where they will respond to it.

B) Send a private message to the administrators, and they can respond to you that way.

If this is done the wrong way, those comments will be deleted, and if it's a repeating problem then it may also receive an infraction as well.

Rule #3

If a poster is bothering you, and an administrator has not or will not deal with that poster to the extent that you would prefer, you have a powerful tool at your disposal, one that has recently been upgraded and is now better than ever: The ability to ignore a user.

When you ignore a user, you will unfortunately still see some hints of their existence (nothing we can do about that), however, it does the following key things:

A) Any post they make will be completely invisible as you scroll through a thread.

B) The new addition to this feature: If someone QUOTES a user you are ignoring, you do not have to read who it was, or what that poster said, unless you go out of your way to click on a link to find out who it is and what they said.

To utilize this feature, from any page on Pacers Digest, scroll to the top of the page, look to the top right where it says 'Settings' and click that. From the settings page, look to the left side of the page where it says 'My Settings', and look down from there until you see 'Edit Ignore List' and click that. From here, it will say 'Add a Member to Your List...' Beneath that, click in the text box to the right of 'User Name', type in or copy & paste the username of the poster you are ignoring, and once their name is in the box, look over to the far right and click the 'Okay' button. All done!

Rule #4

Regarding infractions, currently they carry a value of one point each, and that point will expire in 31 days. If at any point a poster is carrying three points at the same time, that poster will be suspended until the oldest of the three points expires.

Rule #5

When you share or paste content or articles from another website, you must include the URL/link back to where you found it, who wrote it, and what website it's from. Said content will be removed if this doesn't happen.

An example:

If I copy and paste an article from the Indianapolis Star website, I would post something like this:

http://www.linktothearticlegoeshere.com/article
Title of the Article
Author's Name
Indianapolis Star

Rule #6

We cannot tolerate illegal videos on Pacers Digest. This means do not share any links to them, do not mention any websites that host them or link to them, do not describe how to find them in any way, and do not ask about them. Posts doing anything of the sort will be removed, the offenders will be contacted privately, and if the problem becomes habitual, you will be suspended, and if it still persists, you will probably be banned.

The legal means of watching or listening to NBA games are NBA League Pass Broadband (for US, or for International; both cost money) and NBA Audio League Pass (which is free). Look for them on NBA.com.

Rule #7

Provocative statements in a signature, or as an avatar, or as the 'tagline' beneath a poster's username (where it says 'Member' or 'Administrator' by default, if it is not altered) are an unwanted distraction that will more than likely be removed on sight. There can be shades of gray to this, but in general this could be something political or religious that is likely going to provoke or upset people, or otherwise something that is mean-spirited at the expense of a poster, a group of people, or a population.

It may or may not go without saying, but this goes for threads and posts as well, particularly when it's not made on the off-topic board (Market Square).

We do make exceptions if we feel the content is both innocuous and unlikely to cause social problems on the forum (such as wishing someone a Merry Christmas or a Happy Easter), and we also also make exceptions if such topics come up with regards to a sports figure (such as the Lance Stephenson situation bringing up discussions of domestic abuse and the law, or when Jason Collins came out as gay and how that lead to some discussion about gay rights).

However, once the discussion seems to be more/mostly about the political issues instead of the sports figure or his specific situation, the thread is usually closed.

Rule #8

We prefer self-restraint and/or modesty when making jokes or off topic comments in a sports discussion thread. They can be fun, but sometimes they derail or distract from a topic, and we don't want to see that happen. If we feel it is a problem, we will either delete or move those posts from the thread.

Rule #9

Generally speaking, we try to be a "PG-13" rated board, and we don't want to see sexual content or similarly suggestive content. Vulgarity is a more muddled issue, though again we prefer things to lean more towards "PG-13" than "R". If we feel things have gone too far, we will step in.

Rule #10

We like small signatures, not big signatures. The bigger the signature, the more likely it is an annoying or distracting signature.

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Do not advertise anything without talking about it with the administrators first. This includes advertising with your signature, with your avatar, through private messaging, and/or by making a thread or post.
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Need advice on an HDTV

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  • #76
    Re: Need advice on an HDTV

    Question justin, have these sets been calibrated that you are testing? Are you testing the exact same models or are you trying to compare a Pioneer or Panasonic (both models do have the best blacks) with a Samsung which leaves something to be desired?

    Justin I'm not trying to be a wise guy here, but were not talking about someone using Mcintosh or Krell products here.
    You know how hippos are made out to be sweet and silly, like big cows, but are actually extremely dangerous and can kill you with stunning brutality? The Pacers are the NBA's hippos....Matt Moore CBS Sports....

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    • #77
      Re: Need advice on an HDTV

      Originally posted by justinDOHMAN View Post
      You work with this stuff all the time? Im sorry I run a store that does 500k a month in HIGH end theater gear. Infront of my face I see 10 Lcd/Plasma Tv's that cost over 3000 dollars and a Pioneer Elite that retails for 8k with a 1500 dollar Pioneer elite bluray player on it. You can yell and scream about digital does not make a difference. I have nothing to lose here I live in dallas so I am not trying to sell anyone on this board anything. With high end gear YOU WILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE. Infact I actually have a Mit WD65831 Diamond 1080p Setup Picture in Picture with 2 Pioneer elite DV46AV's on it. One with a HDMI 1 Cable from Audioquest and one with a ProSolutions Hdmi Cable on it. The prosolutions goes for about 65 bucks or so. So by your standards it would be a overpriced cable as well. YOU CAN SEE A DIFFERENCE. The blacks are darker the flesh tones are better, and do not even get me started on the Audio difference on the two. The difference is there if you do not want to belive it or not. Will you see it on a 29 dollar dvd player and a 800 dollar 50 inch dlp maybee not. But when you get into the higher quality merchandise you will notice a difference. Before you resond I want to know if you have seen the two side by side both hooked up with a high quality player to actually see the difference. BTW I am in no way saying you should buy the 100-200 dollar HDMI cables I am just simply stating there is a difference between the two. Many people could care less and would rather save 80 dollars or so which is fine.

      There's no difference. Case closed. The blacks aren't darker. The flesh tones aren't better. Nothing. Actually, people in your line of work are the ones that typically spread the disinformation as it's given to them by reps and they innocently believe it as gospel. Or they get caught up in the marketing themselves. Typically, the only way anyone 'sees' a difference is if they WANT to believe the higher priced cable is 'better' or has been told it's better. There have been plenty of tests done to show that in blind tests your assertion falls on its face. Not only that but with these digital signals and cables between devices you CANNOT be correct because there is NO subjective variable involved. That's the kicker.

      There is NO difference because there can't be a difference. It's physically impossible because we are dealing in the digital domain. There is no subjective quality to it. None. Science isn't on your side here. The cable is carrying 1 and 0's and if those get changed the picture gets garbled (as in pixelation or no picture at all).

      I'm sorry but you need to educate yourself more on the cables rather than spreading misinformation as gospel. I'm not trying to argue with you here. I'm just trying to stop the flow of misinformation. Just because you sell them doesn't mean you understand how they work. In fact, you've clearly proven you don't understand. There's no shame in being wrong and if you want to believe there is a subjective difference where none can possibly exist that is your perogative. But I want to make sure people understand how these myths exist and unfold and how a misinformed salesman or catalog hype can separate them from their money.

      There's no real debate here because you couldn't be any more wrong. I'd love to agree with you but then we'd both be wrong.


      -Bball
      Nuntius was right for a while. I was wrong for a while. But ultimately I was right and Frank Vogel has been let go.

      ------

      "A player who makes a team great is more valuable than a great player. Losing yourself in the group, for the good of the group, that’s teamwork."

      -John Wooden

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      • #78
        Re: Need advice on an HDTV

        Originally posted by Robobtowncolt View Post
        I'm totally confused now. What kind of oil should I be using with my new 109 inch flat screen? Olive? Peanut?
        I use a synthetic 5w-30 in mine......
        PSN: MRat731 XBL: MRat0731

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        • #79
          Re: Need advice on an HDTV

          Originally posted by RWB View Post
          Question justin, have these sets been calibrated that you are testing? Are you testing the exact same models or are you trying to compare a Pioneer or Panasonic (both models do have the best blacks) with a Samsung which leaves something to be desired?

          Justin I'm not trying to be a wise guy here, but were not talking about someone using Mcintosh or Krell products here.
          RWD- The Tv we have it on was ISF calibrated if that is what you are asking. We have two of the SAME dvd player hooked up two it. One with a audioquest cable and one with a Prosolutions cable. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE. Like I said before I have no reason to lie to any of you. I live no where close to indy. RWD you are right we may not be talking about mcintosh, krell, or any highend product for that matter. It is just when someone wants to tell me im not seeing something that is RIGHT in front of my face that I like to aruge.

          BBALL- I can tell you are very educated when it comes Electronics. We do not see eye to eye just like 95% of the industry. I will tell you I can personally see a difference. If I could not I Would not be on here saying I could. There is a digital world then there is the real world. The material in the cable does make a difference as well as the AWG.

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          • #80
            Re: Need advice on an HDTV

            BBALL. Real quick those cables you were suggesting. They say they do not support 1080P. Now they have a step up for 50 dollars that does support 1080P and acutally looks like a decent cable. Thats a internet price and is closer to my cost of the Audioquest cables.

            So is your dayton cable you are suggesting. Will it transfer 1080P. In your theory it will. But they say it will not and after emailing the company they say they have cutoff problems with the picture when it does.

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            • #81
              Re: Need advice on an HDTV

              Originally posted by justinDOHMAN View Post
              BBALL. Real quick those cables you were suggesting. They say they do not support 1080P. Now they have a step up for 50 dollars that does support 1080P and acutally looks like a decent cable. Thats a internet price and is closer to my cost of the Audioquest cables.

              So is your dayton cable you are suggesting. Will it transfer 1080P. In your theory it will. But they say it will not and after emailing the company they say they have cutoff problems with the picture when it does.
              I assume that's a bandwidth issue and I haven't looked into that. That is totally different discussion than what we've been talking about previously and still isn't talking about any subjective qualities. Technically, it would still follow my 'theory' (which isn't a theory at all) because 'cutoff problems' would speak to the fact it either works or it doesn't, not that there will be a subjective difference. 1080P just raises the bar on the data rate the cable has to handle. A cable designed to handle the previous HDMI spec (when 1080i was the spec in point) isn't necessarily any more (or less) likely to handle the new speed better whether it's priced at 30.00 or 300.00.

              It's still down to either it works or it doesn't work (pixelization, black screen, etc) not a subjective factor on blacker blacks, better contrast, sharper images, truer color, etc.. It's still either 1 or 0's.... it works or it doesn't. It's in the digital domain.

              I'm certain length of cable would be a factor here. But again, not in subjective qualities of the picture only in whether it worked or not. This isn't analog where that type of thing can creep into the picture (pardon the pun).

              I don't know enough about the data rate requirements of 1080p to say whether the majority of existing 1080i cables would work or not. My guess is the majority would work (especially considering the short distances normally involved in a home environment). Just like running mic line instead of dmx line in DMX512 applications... at short distances there's rarely an issue... as distance increases so does the chance for errors. But those errors don't manifest themselves in subjective ways. And that is really key here.

              I pulled this off another forum:
              I work for Quantum Data and design HDMI test equipment for a living. I personally supplied the test equipment used for the "Digital Perfection" HDMI testing.

              Our equipment was used to test five cables at 1080p 60Hz (i.e. 148.5MHz). The equipment was setup to output random 24-bit pixel values at the transmitter and to compare received values with those transmitted - bit-for-bit at the receiver. All errors were counted - including temporal ones that you would never see with your eyeball. The test was conducted over the full voltage swing range of the HDMI standard (0.15 to 1.56 volts). All of the cables passed this noise test (over a period of several minutes) without a single error - so long as the voltage swing stayed above 0.32 volts. As it is very unlikely that any real product would output a signal below 0.32 volts at these lengths, all the cables essentially preformed flawlessly - regardless of price.

              The "Cable Confidential (chart)" shows that the five cables tested ranged in length from 4 to 4.57 meters and in price from $31 to $300.

              FYI, we ship Molex 88768-9810 2-meter HDMI-to-HDMI cables with our test instruments and nobody has ever complained. I think these cables cost about $20 (quantity one).

              I have personally tested very long (50-meters)/expensive/high-quality cables through a pre-emphasized/equalized repeater and seen zero errors at 1080p 60Hz. So I can say for sure that perfection is possible for a price - using expensive cable and quality electronics on both ends.

              To summarize, I think it would be safe to use just about any name brand off-the-shelf cable at 4-meters - so long one has properly designed source and sink products at either end. At longer lengths (e.g. 10-meter or greater) there may be a reason to spend more money. Here, I'd buy pre-emphasized/equalized electronics and cables with Simplay certification.
              If anyone is still following there is also this from PC World Mag (highlights by me):

              The Cable Game


              Salespeople may tell you that exotic video cables deliver a better picture. But the results of our exclusive lab tests could save you money.

              Sean Captain
              Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:00 AM PDT

              Digital Perfection

              Digital technology promises to transmit a perfect signal nearly all the time, thanks to the exacting standards incorporated in the HDMI specification. HDMI Licensing, which oversees the HDMI spec and ensures that companies comply with it, requires that no more than one pixel per billion be lost in transmission. "Even if you lost one out of a thousand pixels, you wouldn't notice it," says Leslie Chard, HDMI Licensing president.

              To see for ourselves, we first used Quantum Data's 802BT Signal Generator/Analyzer to determine each cable's ability to handle video at resolutions of 480 progressive, which DVD players use; 720 progressive, popular among HDTV stations; and 1080 progressive, a possible format for future high-definition DVD discs and HD broadcasts.

              We ran these resolutions at the 1.0-volt signal standard that HDMI sources (such as DVD players and cable set-top boxes) should provide. But we also challenged the cables with less-than-ideal voltage levels, ranging from an anemic 0.15 volt (to simulate a weak signal) up to an overdriven level of 1.56 volts. All but one cable performed well down to 0.15 volt and up to 1080 progressive for the main video signal elements: sync and InfoFrames (which allow the source and the TV to maintain a proper connection), plus three components that carry color or brightness information. Even the exception--a 4.5-meter AudioQuest HDMI-X cable that we purchased at Best Buy--would work fine in real life, where sources are more powerful than 0.15 volt and current resolutions are less demanding than 1080p. (Two other HDMI-X cables from AudioQuest performed well.)

              All of the cables, however, had some trouble when we degraded the high-definition copy-protection signal, a dialogue between the source and the display that is required for decrypting copy-protected material. If the HDCP information isn't transmitted, the device won't deliver a signal. Every cable we tried failed to transmit the HDCP data at between 0.32 and 0.29 volt as we progressively lowered the voltage in our test setup. You're unlikely to encounter a signal as weak as that, however.

              Real-World Digital

              Next we used the Quantum Data 802BT to generate 720p test patterns and send them to an Epson PowerLite Cinema 500 LCD projector--a $5000 model that displays crisp high-definition signals in their native resolution of 1280 by 720 pixels, without scaling the image to higher or lower resolutions and thereby introducing artifacts. If the cables we tested could handle video signals specifically designed to illustrate problems, they could handle The Aviator or Lost.

              We used a number of tests, including ramp screens, which present a smooth horizontal progression from black to full brightness. In viewing 720p ramps for gray, red, green, and blue, we looked for blinking or incorrectly colored pixels. Blue speckles appearing on a red ramp, for instance, would have indicated that the cable had delivered incorrect data; with real video, such errors might translate to colored flecks in shadows. But all the cables, including the AudioQuest HDMI-X one that had some difficulty in our instrument tests, had no problems.

              One obstacle we did face involved establishing solid connections with our devices' HDMI ports. In some cases, we connected the cable but no image appeared. Sometimes wiggling the cable fixed the problem, and sometimes it didn't. But the trouble seems to stem from the the standard HDMI connector design used by all cable vendors.

              "If you jiggle an HDMI connector, one or two electrical lines in the connector might have intermittent connections," says Chad Nelson, an engineer with Maxim Integrated Products, which manufactures chips for digital and analog signaling.

              "We don't believe that there is a fundamental problem with the design of the HDMI connector," says HDMI Licensing's Chard. However, he notes that his organization is evaluating proposals for a connector that latches in place.

              For now, the best strategy is to position the cable carefully so that it applies no stress to the connector. In our tests, we had the most trouble when trying to attach Monster's $300 M1000HDMI cable to the Epson's HDMI port. Easily the thickest, stiffest, heaviest model we reviewed, the Monster cable pulled away from the projector's HDMI port, often causing the screen to go blank.

              Digital Reliability

              Once you get a good HDMI connection, our tests indicate, you can expect flawless performance from any 4-meter cable, regardless of price. "That is what I would expect from the HDMI cables," says Maxim's Nelson. "It is not too difficult to make them work perfectly at 4 meters."

              Digital cables are inherently more dependable than analog ones. Both transmit data by controlling the voltage levels in an electrical signal. With analog, slight shifts in voltage correspond to precise values in the final picture. Thus, if the signal carrying blue color information loses voltage as it travels down the cable, the blue objects on screen will appear weaker than intended. (Think faded skies.)
              -{Note by Bball- This paragraph above refers to ANALOG cables. The paragraph below talks about digital cables (HDMI)}

              For its part, digital carries just ones and zeros. In HDMI, if the signal voltage is high, it encodes a one; if low, a zero. The voltage encoded as a one can drop a fair amount and still be distinguishable from voltage encoded as a zero. After a certain point, however, the signal voltage drops so low that ones and zeros look alike, and the TV's receiver chip attempts to guess their value. So rather than gradually diminishing in accuracy, the way an analog signal does, a digital signal may remain perfect up to a critical level and then fail catastrophically. According to the experts, such problems are likelier to occur with an 8- to 12-meter copper cable (which is significantly longer than most users need) than with a 4-meter cable of the same type.

              http://www.pcworld.com/article/id,12.../article.html#

              All this confirms what I have been saying: With a digital connection there is absolutely no way that a functioning cable can make any subjective difference in the picture quality.

              If you see a difference at all then what you are likely seeing is the difference in how the 2 inputs are calibrated on the TV set, or a difference in the calibration of the DVD players themselves (or both). What you described is in no way a fair comparison between the two cables. It's extremely flawed (tho it does explain why you see a difference). Different TV inputs, different DVD players (same model or not)... different results. Of course! I'd expect nothing less.

              The cables have nothing to do with it tho. Nor could they. We're talking digital, not analog. It's simply scientifically impossible.

              -Bball
              Nuntius was right for a while. I was wrong for a while. But ultimately I was right and Frank Vogel has been let go.

              ------

              "A player who makes a team great is more valuable than a great player. Losing yourself in the group, for the good of the group, that’s teamwork."

              -John Wooden

              Comment


              • #82
                Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                Originally posted by justinDOHMAN View Post
                Sorry guys but you will notice a difference between a cheap hdmi and one that is actually decent build quality. Cables are inducers. They are only going to damage the picture quality. The cheaper you go the cheaper the materials they use to build it which in turn cause more noise or distortion. This may be fine to some people but if you are running 1080p and you just spent 600 bucks on a ps3 then why not hook it up the correct way. Look at the different cables from Audioquest the HDMI 1 and the HDMI X. 120 Bucks but it upgrades you to silver in your cable which is a better conductor for High quality HD signal.

                Also the grainyness and wavy lines might be from a ground loop caused by your power. You may check ebay for some of the monster power or Panamax strips that filter noise. These make a TON of difference in the performance. If you are tight on money I would say keep it hooked up with component and buy one of these. Retail they go for about 150 - 200 bucks so you should be able to find a used one for a good price. I cannot remember the basic monster one but the panamax one is the M8HCPRO. Its a nice piece that does a great job.
                Once there was a world of analog, where any slight distortion to the signal came across.

                We don't live there anymore. An ugly 1 looks the same as a pretty 1, and a bit counter test proves it.

                I saw a guy use a COAT HANGER to replace his coax digital audio out a few years ago. Put it on a counter, no increase in errors.

                That's why we are pushing into digital solutions in the first place.


                The only other worry I'd have with longer runs is coupling between the lines, but as the PC Mag article points out, there are standards and specs that must be met for this.


                Sorry, but I've worked as a EE in this field (consumer electronics video, including HD stuff) and have friends that still do with various companies. Plus the CPU world deals with the exact same issues. High frequency digital became an issue for computer design 10+ years ago, before DVD was even launched, let alone ATSC.

                But they say it will not and after emailing the company they say they have cutoff problems with the picture when it does.
                WTH does tha mean? Cutoff problems? Look, the increase in data rate increases the frequencies that will be transmitted. With that you get bigger coupling issues (2 parallel lines "seeing" the signal on each other) and frequency ringing issues at the ends of the line.

                You might get some distortion from that, flip a bit or 2, and see a very small amount of noticeable pixel errors (ie, the pixel is a much different color), but then at the rate of SIXTY frames per second, and 1920x1080 pixels per frame, good freaking luck noticing it.

                If the freq rate is way beyond a cable's ability, you just lose picture totally. Or it blocks up when bits in a primary frame drop, or bits in the header drop, etc. Ghosting, graininess, distortion...those are analog-only issues.



                AVSForums is your friend, always a great place to start, far better than any salesperson. I know for a fact that people in the biz read and respond at AVS, people that made the circuits, programmed the players, etc.

                Comment


                • #83
                  Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                  ok so I finally joined the HD world and have gotten a Samsung LE-32R82 which I'll be using as my monitor...

                  http://www.samsung.com/ie/products/t...Specifications


                  Which brings me to the following questions:

                  I can't seem to find which dpi this model supports...480, 720 or 1080? could someone tell me how I can find/test it out?

                  As for connection - I'm currently using VGA...my Video card can also support Component high definition and S-Video output. Which one would be the best to use?

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                    Originally posted by bellisimo View Post

                    I can't seem to find which dpi this model supports...480, 720 or 1080? could someone tell me how I can find/test it out?
                    If I had to guess it would be 720...
                    Originally posted by Natston;n3510291
                    I want the people to know that they still have 2 out of the 3 T.J.s working for them, and that ain't bad...

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                      Originally posted by bellisimo View Post
                      ok so I finally joined the HD world and have gotten a Samsung LE-32R82 which I'll be using as my monitor...

                      http://www.samsung.com/ie/products/t...Specifications


                      Which brings me to the following questions:

                      I can't seem to find which dpi this model supports...480, 720 or 1080? could someone tell me how I can find/test it out?

                      As for connection - I'm currently using VGA...my Video card can also support Component high definition and S-Video output. Which one would be the best to use?
                      Since "Full HD" is not checked as an option, that means it's 720.

                      As for connection, a component high-def cable is preferable to S-Video. HDMI is the best, though.

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                        damn...its my second day with the TV and I'm already having problems with it.

                        The image started to just disappear for 5 seconds and come back. It is as if it has reset.

                        Anyone know what might cause this problem?

                        Is overheating an issue with LCDs?

                        Is there such thing as using the TV too much?

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                          Originally posted by Shade View Post
                          Since "Full HD" is not checked as an option, that means it's 720.

                          As for connection, a component high-def cable is preferable to S-Video. HDMI is the best, though.

                          Full HD would be 1080p (at least in the current marketing jargon)...

                          The TV could still be 1080i. It HAS to be at least 720p or 1080i to be HD so the 480p is not an option for its max resolution.

                          No idea about the loss of picture.

                          -Bball
                          Nuntius was right for a while. I was wrong for a while. But ultimately I was right and Frank Vogel has been let go.

                          ------

                          "A player who makes a team great is more valuable than a great player. Losing yourself in the group, for the good of the group, that’s teamwork."

                          -John Wooden

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                            whew..turns out it was just my video card that was over heated *or so I think* after logging 2+ hours of Crysis...

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                              Originally posted by Bball View Post
                              Full HD would be 1080p (at least in the current marketing jargon)...

                              The TV could still be 1080i. It HAS to be at least 720p or 1080i to be HD so the 480p is not an option for its max resolution.

                              No idea about the loss of picture.

                              -Bball
                              Ah, true. I see very few 1080i's around, though.

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                Re: Need advice on an HDTV

                                Originally posted by Bball View Post
                                Full HD would be 1080p (at least in the current marketing jargon)...

                                The TV could still be 1080i. It HAS to be at least 720p or 1080i to be HD so the 480p is not an option for its max resolution.

                                No idea about the loss of picture.

                                -Bball
                                so if I were to just download one of those HD trailers which is 1080i - and it works does that mean the TV supports it - or is there a possibilty for its playback by an auto conversion to 720p?

                                Comment

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